Give Me Five - Views in the Pyrénées-Orientales

 Château de Quéribus

The Château de Quéribus perches improbably on a high rocky outcrop – not much fun, I imagine, for those who had to build it almost one thousand years ago, but a great place to visit for panoramic views stretching eastwards across a patchwork of fields striped with rows of vines, to the Roussillon Plain dotted with towns and villages beyond and, on a clear day, all the way to the sparkling blue Mediterranean.

The château sits on what was once the border with Spain and I pity anyone who was tasked with attacking it because from the lookouts here, anyone approaching in daylight didn’t stand a chance! It’s an evocative place – and fascinating to sit and ponder how the men who defended the border might have lived all those years ago.

Entry to the castle is 5 euros for adults and 2 euros for children (under 6s go free). It’s a relatively steep climb, although my two year old managed it, and absolutely loved scrambling around the staircases and ramparts inside the castle. Pack a picnic and make a day of it as there are picnic tables at the foot of the climb, plenty of parking and even eco-toilets.

The Palais des Rois de Majorque, Perpignan

It has always struck me as odd that you can’t see the Palais des Rois de Majorque, Perpignan’s most important historical monument, from most of the city, given its position on top of a hill. The fabulous views come as something of a surprise when you climb up the steps through a cobbled tunnel towards this impressive structure, and reach the gardens surrounding it, themselves surrounded by high fortress walls. The walls are dotted with holes through which you can look out over Perpignan, east to the coast, west to the Roussillon Plain and the Pyrenees, south to the Albères and north towards the Corbières. Climb up to the top of the Tour de l’Hommage and the views are elevated to spectacular - a 360° panorama which enables you to truly appreciate the wonderful diversity of the region. An illustrated drawing points out the main points of interest.

The palace was built at the end of the 13^th century to house the court of Jacques I, the King of Majorca, and subsequent kings used it as their principal residence. The Conseil Général run guided visits of the palace encompassing the Gothic style chapels and impressive courtyards. It is also used as a venue for art exhibitions and music concerts. 

Cap Béar, Port Vendres

If ever you’re feeling down, I recommend heading down to the Côte Vermeille to remind yourself just how beautiful the world can be. The drive down through Collioure and Port Vendres is stunning in itself but for views you can’t beat Cap Béar.

Standing at the foot of the lovely lighthouse here, built from the distinctive red marble from Villefranche de Conflent, you can face north and count the resorts along the Côte Radieuse starting with Le Racou and Argelès. We counted at least seven on the clear day we were there.

Look south along the Côte Vermeille and the coastline stands in stark contrast to the sandy beaches of the Côte Radieuse with rocky cliffs dropping down into near-deserted creeks and bays all the way to the border with Spain and beyond. Cap Béar itself is a rocky promontory which juts out into the blue, blue sea, which is beautifully clear and incredibly inviting when you look down from above. Wind your way around the coast and you can drop down into the bays for a dip, depending on the time of year. Only for the brave in April!

Pic du Canigou

 For the daddy of all views, you can’t beat the top of Canigou, the sacred mountain of the Catalans which dominates the skyline in much of the P-O. They say that on a clear day you can see the fabulous blue curve of the Mediterranean all the way to Marseilles, and although this wasn’t the case when I climbed, it was a view well worth seeing anyway. Rarely have I felt more exhilarated than when I was perched on the top gazing at the craggy peaks immediately surrounding me and across the Pyrenees. A map on a rock at the top reveals all the other peaks in the area as well as other notable sites.

It takes a bit of effort to get to the summit but if you have a reasonable level of fitness (and I’d say that was being generous in my case!), you should be able to manage the 2 hour (ish) climb from the refuge at Cortalets. A sprightly six year old was at the top with us! The refuge is only accessible by 4x4 and it’s a pretty bumpy one hour drive on unpaved roads to reach it. From there however, the walk is both stunning and manageable – I was actually surprised at how easy I found it, and I didn’t even ache too much the next day! We went with a guide, which was reassuring – it’s worth remembering that weather conditions can change quickly up here and the mountain should be treated with caution.

Le Petit Train Jaune

Not just one view, but consistently stunning views for the duration of your journey on the Little Yellow Train, which runs between Villefranche de Conflent and Latour de Carol with numerous stops throughout the Cerdagne. Initially, there is a steep climb with breathtaking views down into the valley and some vertiginous moments crossing bridges which must have been major feats of engineering. Further on, the terrain plateaus on the Cerdagne plain and the scenery changes.

Fact fans, this is the world’s highest operational train line with France’s highest station situated at Bolquère (1593m above sea level), it can be a lifeline in winter for residents of some of the area’s most isolated villages. With a maximum speed of 55km, this is not the quickest way of getting up to the ski resorts, but it’s a great way to appreciate the beautiful scenery of the Cerdagne.