Give Me 5 ..... springtime festivals in the region

 Fête de l’Huître - 6th March 2010

 Oyster lovers take note, the coastal town of Le Barcarès is hosting its annual oyster fest on 6^th March where 12 tons of them will be on offer for your delectation at the popular dinner and dance held in the town. Tickets cost 22 euros for adults and 6 euros for children.

Whilst in the UK oysters are very much a luxury foodstuff, their abundance here in the region means that they are an affordable delicacy. And, for once, while you’re gorging yourself on this gourmet item, you don’t need to feel guilty as they are one of nature’s most nutritious foods. Not only do they contain a healthy balance of protein, carbohydrates and lipids, but they are also low in cholesterol, packed with vitamins and minerals and if their reputed aphrodisiacal powers are true, they may even pep up your love life too. Now that’s what I call a super food!

Festival de Musique Sacrée – 26 March - 3rd April 2010

Since 1987 this has been an annual event in Perpignan’s cultural calendar and takes place in Easter week. A fascinating series of concerts, exhibitions and seminars is put together and open to the general public. The main venue for the event is the Eglise des Dominicains – well worth a look in its own right if you have never seen it. It is a deconsecrated church, now used as an events venue, and is a beautiful and cavernous structure with huge windows and lovely vaulted ceilings. But I digress....

The aims of the festival are to bring together people of different faiths and beliefs and celebrate their diversity through music. This is reflected in this year’s line up which features both classical works such as Dvorak’s Stabat Mater, which kicks off this year’s festival and is described as an ode to pain and hope, as well as lesser known contemporary musicians such as the French “gypsy” guitarist, Thierry “Titi” Robin, who brings together influences from his native Mediterranean and India, where he has studied his craft with well known Indian musicians.

Toques et Clochers - 27 March 2010

One of Limoux’s largest producers of Blanquette de Limoux, the vignerons Sieur d’Arques, started this highly successful festival and wine auction back in the eighties in order to promote the Appellation and produce internationally recognised wines of an exceptional quality. It is attended by the world’s greatest wine buyers and writers, as well as plenty of hoi polloi who like to party.

The event is a right old knees-up, reminiscent of a beer festival but with bubbly instead of hops-based beverages, which, to my mind, is much more civilised! The general public and wine professionals come together for tastings, and to enjoy local food specialities, entertainment and music.

The venue changes from year to year. This year it is the town of Couiza’s turn to host. A share in the proceeds of the auction will be put towards maintaining the town’s bell tower, hence the Clocher part of the festival’s name. The Toques refers to the traditional chef’s hat – a reference to the fact that each year a celebrated chef is drafted in to cook at a gala dinner attended by the great and the good (by invitation only).

This is a fun and very well organised event with buses laid on from Limoux to Couiza – it’s an absolute must for all wine lovers. See you there!

Procession de la Sanch – 2^nd April 2010

This is a spectacle which should be seen for its sheer drama, although the Procession de la Sanch could never be described as a joyous occasion! I have possibly the best view of it in the whole of Perpignan from my bedroom window, but it’s a sight I spare the children for fear of nightmares for weeks afterwards. It takes place on Good Friday and celebrates The Passion of Christ.

Hundreds of penitents wearing black or red pointed hoods, faces eerily hidden, parade through the streets of Perpignan, starting at the 12^th century church of St Jacques. The regidor leads, a sombre figure dressed in red ringing an iron bell. Behind him come groups of men and women. Some go barefoot, the women in Miss Haversham-esque widow’s weeds, many of the men carrying carved depictions of scenes from the Passion. Each wooden scene takes four men to carry it and at regular intervals the lead man bangs a stick on the ground to signal a much-needed break.

The origins of the procession are as macabre as it looks and date back to the 1400s. Executioners and the criminals sentenced to death at their hands were hooded and paraded through the streets. They were accompanied by similarly hooded penitents who were there to provide comfort and remind people that even the worst of sinners could be saved by the sacrifice of Jesus, who was also condemned.

There are similar processions in Arles sur Tech and Collioure on the same day.

Fête de Sant Jordi/Fête du livre et de la rose – 23^rd April 2010

Saint George is not just the patron saint of England, the Catalans also adopted him as their own, identifying his struggle to free a city from the tyranny of a wicked dragon preying on its young ladies with their own fight for independence. They too celebrate his saint’s day.   

The Fête de Sant Jordi shares the date of 23rd April with the Fête du livre et de la rose. For centuries it has been traditional in Catalonia for young men to give their lovers a book on this day and to receive a rose in return. This tradition, coupled with the fact that two of the greatest writers of all time - Cervantes and Shakespeare - died on this date was the reason why in 1995 UNESCO chose it as World Book Day. It is also believed to be Shakespeare’s birthday so a pretty big day for literature all round!

Many towns and villages throughout the region will celebrate on the weekend closest to 23^rd April with book readings, workshops for children, secondhand book stalls and, ladies, if you’re lucky a noble gentleman may even present you with a book! Roses at the ready...

To carry on the flower theme, it is also worth checking out the rather charming Fontaines Fleuries in Perpignan old town on the same day. The fountains are beautifully decorated by local florists and garden centres.